How To: Tile A Bathroom Wall

 What you will need

  • Tiles
  • Tile spacers
  • Flexible adhesive
  • Tile grout
  • Tile cutter
  • Notched trowel
  • Grout float
  • Spirit level
  • Sealant & sealant gun
  • Dust sheets
  • Sponge
  • Cloth
  • Eye protection goggles
  • Bath seal (if required)
  • Batten (if required)
  • Tile beading (if required)

 

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  • 1 Prepare the area you are working in. Cover any exposed surfaces that you are not tiling with dust sheets. Remove any fittings from the wall where possible.
  • 2 If working from a level surface e.g. a bath, you can line your first row of tiles with this. (Floors are rarely level enough to tile from so if you working directly from the floor fix a 2 x 1 batten at the height of one tile. Ensure the batten is level before securing to the wall. This will serve as a level for all the tiles on the wall.)
  • 3 Line out the tiles against the wall you will be tiling. Before tiling, Lie a row of tiles against the wall to ensure that you are not left with less than half a tile at either end of the wall. Re-arrange them if required. Top Tip: Before fitting the bath seal, run a sealant bead between the bath and the wall. This will give an extra layer of protection.
  • 4 Cut and sit your bath trim in place.
  • 5 Score the wall with the edge of your notched trowel to increase adhesion to the wall. Score the walls by making multiple marks in random directions.
  • 6 Spread your adhesive on the wall with the notched trowel. Work in sections of 1 metre squared to ensure that the adhesive will still be wet when you get to tiling over it. The notches on the spreader ensure that the adhesive is spread over the wall at a constant depth. Top Tip: If working on a plasterboard wall use flexible adhesive to allow for wall movement behind the tiles. If tiling on a masonry wall you can us a standard adhesive.
  • 7 Place your first tile in position in the bottom left hand corner if you are right handed and in the bottom right hand corner if you are left handed and then work across the row.
  • 8 Place spacers in each corner. Use sliding movements to get the tile into position. Press spacers into the joints as you tile across.
  • 9 Build the tiles upward in a grid pattern, in the same direction as your first row. Top tip: When cutting tiles, set the blade of the tile cutter right on the marked line. Press the blade down, and push it forward across the tile in one smooth, steady motion to score a line. Press the handle down firmly on either side of the cut and the tile should snap cleanly in two.
  • 10 Use a tile cutter to cut around any fixtures or fittings you have marked. Spread more adhesive on the wall as you work.
  • 11 Use tile beading to give a professional finish around any edges or windows.
  • 12 Use a damp sponge to remove any excess adhesive from the tiles. Leave the tiles to dry for the time indicated in the adhesive instructions.
  • 13 When the wall is completely tiled, it will need to be grouted.
  • 14 Remove any protruding spacers between the tiles and use a grout float to fill the gaps with tile grout.
  • 15 Remove any excess grout with a damp sponge and leave to dry. Then polish off the tiles with a clean dry cloth.
  • 16 Finally seal around the edges with a silicone bead to ensure the area is waterproof.